Machu Picchu: Tourist Spectacle

Early in the twentieth century, a young, fearless, self-promoter named Hiram Bingham, breathlessly announced the discovery of a ‘mysterious’, ‘lost city’ in the remote mountains of Peru. Sensing the moment, National Geographic jumped in with an elaborate picture essay of ‘mystery’ and ‘decay.’ Bingham promoted himself from obscure university lecturer to world famous explorer and National Geographic reached new heights of sensationalist nonsense. Bingham became a U.S. Senator, married into wealth, and became a world recognized member of the brand: ‘intrepid explorer.’ National Geographic has continued to discover new topics to sensationalize.

I visited Machu Picchu in the early 1990’s. A night at the hotel adjacent to the entrance was $40 or $60US depending on season. A full day ticket was just pocket change and I wandered freely through Machu Pichhu until dinner time. Some afternoons I was mostly alone. Then I cured a painful injury of one of the attendants at the admission gate and admission was free for me. Now, a night at the hotel is a $1,000US, admission is only in groups of sixteen, half day tickets are $30US and it is very crowded. A UN commission has warned Peru that overcrowding could collapse Machu Picchu into the river below.

I think it has become difficult to experience Machu Picchu without a tourist lense. The tour agency hype, the nonsense of the tour guides, the subtext: ‘one of the world’s wonders,’ all of it presents Machu Picchu as a spectacle to be consumed. Honestly, I do not have strong memories of Machu Picchu from my half dozen visits. Rather, I have vivid memories of the high altitude jungle which surrounds Machu Picchu in a mysterious loveliness of low canopy lushness sprinkled with endless orchid displays. The southern Peruvian highlands is dotted with sacred monuments. Machu Picchu is just one of many and its not that high on my list.

6/18/19